In the midst of the cold swirling wind and light falling snow we retreated down the river bed. Hauling big bags loaded with all our gear we were hoping that the Tajiks would keep the rendezvous. Luckily as we reached the boulders they appeared coming down the slope. Gratefully we loaded the bags on to the donkeys. They had a note from our driver, Ibeek’s brother. It said meet on the border tomorrow! We therefore had a long day ahead.
The Tajiks had crossed the river higher up and we did our now familiar routine of removing boots and socks, donning sandals and then piggybacking our local help across the river! The walk down went swiftly in the cooler temperatures and by late afternoon we found ourselves back at our first camp. We brewed up and swapped food with the Tajiks, they loved our tea but didn’t think much or our assorted remaining tins, thankfully they had bread.
After just one hour more of walking we reached the truck and after a long day walking could sit down. Loading the donkeys was an education but this time they had rented from a nomadic family just 2 hours drive away and another hour after this found us at the guesthouse in Karakol.
Waking the next morning was great knowing we were nearly back to civilisation. We had some time to wander down to the lake shore and gaze up at the mountains surrounding us, after the snow the day before they glistened in the morning light. We sat around waiting for an hour or so until Ibeek informed us he couldn’t find Bakar and Assan! We walked around for awhile looking for them. Eventually finding them wandering about.
We got in the truck one last time for the ride to the border. It seemed further than I remembered from the last time but eventually we rocked up and waited for Muhammed. After about 20 minutes his 4×4 appear through the checkpoint. He had taken the opportunity to bring a load of melons into Tajikistan and we helped our guys swap the melons for a luggage, something like 10 bags for 200 melons! Taking a final picture we boarded the jeep for 4×4 and the delights of Osh.